🧗Episode 2: Gym Etiquette and a Short Beginner’s Jargon Explained

Grading systems, etiquette, and bouldering jargon explained

The climbing gym can feel intimidating with all the unknown “rules” and weird words. This guide breaks down gym etiquette, common climbing terms, and grades —so you don’t feel like a total newbie.

Ok, so nails are clipped and you’re hitting the gym—coooool! I’m so excited for you!! 🙌 Before you start crushing your first routes, let’s talk about some basic climbing gym etiquette, grading systems, and a bit of climbing jargon that will help you feel at home. Every gym has its own rules, so always check their website or read the signs on the wall. However, these tips I provide here are pretty much universal.

Gym Etiquette

✅ Watch for climbers above you
Never walk or stand under someone climbing. If they fall, it can cause serious injury to both of you.

✅ Walk, don’t run
Move calmly around the gym. Stay aware of your surroundings and avoid areas directly under the walls where people are climbing.

✅ Check your route before starting
Look at both the beginning and end of your climb route. Make sure it doesn’t cross paths with someone else already on the wall.

✅ Be mindful when resting
Sit or stand in safe spots where you’re not under or in front of other climbers.

✅ Keep things hygienic
Wash your hands after using the bathroom. Don’t wear climbing shoes into the toilet (gross and unhygienic!). And don’t walk around barefoot in the gym, take slippers with you!

✅ Chalk policy
Some gyms provide chalk, others sell it, others forbids the use of your own chalk. Chalk helps prevent sweaty hands, so getting a chalk bag and chalk is usually one of the first useful purchases for beginners. If you have your chalk bag already, do not clip it on to belt/belt-loop, leave it off! (unless you go rope climbing)

✅ Supervise kids
Gyms are not playgrounds. If you bring children, check the gym’s rules and keep them in designated safe areas.

👉 And the most important unwritten "rule":

Try to climb down at least half way down, instead of jumping. Here’s why: You reduce the risk of injury. You build strength and stamina for the long run. Only jump down if there’s truly no other option (I will tell you how in Episode 4)!

 

Bouldering Grades

V-Scale: V0 → V17 (Hueco, USA)
Font Scale: 3 → 9A, and +/– (e.g., 6A, 6B+, 7C) (Fontainebleau, France/Europe)
Hybrid Systems: Many gyms show both scales (e.g., V4 ≈ Font 6B, or just “6B“)

Rough Bouldering Comparisons

V0 ≈ Font 4
V2 ≈ Font 5+
V4 ≈ Font 6B
V6 ≈ Font 7A
V10 ≈ Font 7C+

Rope Climbing Grades

Yosemite Decimal System: 5.0–5.15d. Most gyms start beginners around 5.6–5.9  (USA)
French Scale: 3 → 9b+, using letters (e.g., 6a, 7b+, 8c) (Europe)
UIAA: III → XII (Germany/Austria)
British Trad: Combines adjectival grade (Diff, Severe, E1, E5…) + technical grade (4c, 5a, etc.)
Australian: 1 → 35

The Tricky Part

Different gyms and climbing areas grade routes differently. A V2 in one gym might feel like a V4 elsewhere, which is why climbers often say, “grades are just numbers.”

During your first year(s), it’s normal to focus on grading and avoid anything that seems “out of your league.” (Pff, I still do this). That’s perfectly fine! But as you build confidence and stamina, I recommend trying harder climbs—even if you can only do one or two moves. That’s where real progress happens.

I suggest: Start with your warm-up routine and send a few routes at your own level, where ever you feel confident. Once you’re warmed up and confident to do more, test yourself on slightly harder climbs. Check how it feels, but don’t trust the first tryouts, try at least a few times. But remember: it’s completely okay to stick to V0–V2 routes if they make you happy. Climbing is your hobby, and it should be fun—but don’t be afraid to challenge yourself!

Basic Climbing Jargon

Not a native English speaker? No worries! Here are some key climbing words you’ll hear all the time:

  • Hold – The shaped plastic grip on the wall you use for your hands.

  • Foot(hold) – Smaller holds designed for your feet.

  • Route – A marked path up the wall, usually identified by color.

  • Beta – Advice or a “secret trick” on how to complete a climb. You can always ask other climbers for beta!

  • First hold – The starting point of a climb (can be one or two holds). Usually labeled.

  • Top hold – The final hold where your route ends.

  • Send (a route) – Successfully completing a climb all the way to the top.

  • Downclimb – Using any holds (sometimes marked with arrows) to climb down instead of jumping.

With these basics, you’ll feel way less awkward your first time in the gym. Next episodes, we’ll dive into something crucial: how to warm up and how to fall safely. See you there!

When I’m learning new routes or moves, I focus on “waking up my nervous system.” Climbing isn’t just muscles—it’s your brain and body syncing to new movement patterns. A route that feels impossible one day can feel smooth the next once your coordination clicks. Muscle fatigue shows up as soreness or tired limbs, but nervous system fatigue is more subtle: timing feels off, movements clunky, and your flow just isn’t there. That’s usually my cue to rest. I do a rest week in every 7 weeks if the rest week doesn't happen naturally (travel, work, illness...).

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Episode 1: What to Do Before Your First Indoor Climbing Session?

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Why Climbing for Beginners?

Starting out in climbing can feel overwhelming — new terms, unfamiliar gear, and a wall that looks impossible to scale. Climbing for Beginners exists to make that first step easier. Here, you’ll find simple guides, practical tips, and encouragement from someone who was also learning along the way, and still learning! No jargon, no pressure — just a friendly place to help you start climbing with confidence.

  • Start Simple

    Clear, beginner-friendly advice without the jargon.

  • Learn Together

    Written from the perspective of a fellow climber still enthusiastic of learning.

  • Climb with Confidence

    Practical tips to make your first steps on the wall safer and more fun.

What You Get

Explore the Smart Start series – your quick guide to getting started with confidence. Each episode breaks down the essentials into clear, practical steps, so you can focus less on confusion and more on enjoying the journey.

 

 

  • Clear Guidance:

    Breaks down essentials into easy-to-follow steps.

  • Confidence Boost

    Helps you start without feeling overwhelmed.

  • Support

    Encourages questions and provides answers to keep you on track